The Easternmost point of Brazil
João Pessoa is the largest city in the Brazilian State of Paraíba, nicknamed JAMPA. This is where you can find the Easternmost point of the American continents, Ponta das Seixas. The Cabo Branco beach boardwalk is always busy with people walking, running, cycling and enjoying the beach. There are a few beautiful beaches outside the city center, my favorite was Tabatinga.
*Pro Tip: This is a common place to stop on the way to Pipa Beach.
João Pessoa experiences a dry-summer climate with warm temperatures from 23-31 C (74-88 F) all year long. João Pessoa's coast line boasts 20 kilometers (12 miles) of beachfront.
Beaches South of João Pessoa
Approximately 50 minutes south of Cabo Branco you will find five beaches: Praia Bela, Tambaba, Praia de Coqueirinho, Praia do Amor and Praia Barra de Gramame. Tours are available to four beaches for $65 RS per person in a shared car or $150 RS per person in a private car (this tour does not include Praia Bela). The tour starts at 8:30 AM and returns at 5 PM. You can find these tour vendors on the boardwalk at Cabo Branco - you can book last minute, they do not sell out.
Praia Bela is 1 hour South of Cabo Branco. There are many restaurants and barracas (beach vendors) here and it gets very busy. A sand dune barrier forms between the beach and the river so you can paddle board, kayak and swim in calm water. This is not the place to go for a quiet afternoon. This is a party beach and it is a ton of fun.
Praia de Tambaba is 50 minutes South of Cabo Branco. The beach is famous for the lone palm tree that sits atop a rock split in half and the nudist portion of the beach. The road to this beach is paved.
Public beach area - there are many rock formations on the shore so there is not a lot of room to sit. There are barracas here that serve drinks/food and rent beach chairs and umbrellas.
Nudist beach area - walk to the South end of Tambaba to find the entrance for the nudist beach. When you enter this area it is a requirement to be nude.
Praia de Coqueirinho is 40 minutes South of Cabo Branco. The highway road is straightforward and easy to follow to the beach entrance. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from when you arrive, but I recommend packing a lunch and walking north to explore Praia de Tabatinga. If you decide to take the shared car tour, they will drop you off at Praia de Coqueirinho for 4 hours.
Praia de Tabatinga is beautiful. As you walk North from Praia de Coqueirinho you come across some rocks and continue walking on the sand. There will be a beautiful bay for swimming and a palm tree lined beach. If you continue walking the beach opens up to dramatic falésias (rock cliffs). This is Tabatinga and it is worth the walk. The beach was private and deserted when I was there. You can stop at Mirante do Urubu to take a picture of the hill turning into the red cliffs.
Praia do Amor is 40 minutes south of Cabo Branco. This beach is good for a quick picture stop at the circular rock formation. It is not good for spending the day or swimming because there are many rocks. If you take the shared car tour, they stop here for 15 minutes. Many tours stop here for picture taking so there might be a line.
Praia Barra de Gramame is 35 minutes south of Cabo Branco. It looks nicer in pictures than it does in person. The beach scene is best in the afternoon because the bars/restaurants are fun, but it is completely empty in the morning. The other beaches listed are more beautiful than this beach.
Downtown João Pessoa
Ponta do Seixas is the Easternmost point of the American continents. The lighthouse monument is just south of Cabo Branco. At low tide there are white sand beaches below the monument as well as rock beaches that form piscinas naturais (natural pools).
Cabo Branco is the main beach in João Pessoa. The crescent moon shaped beach is popular for swimming and water sports. There are many restaurants and beach vendors located up and down this beach and many host live music at night. The tour vendors line up on Cabo Branco during the day and if you go before 8 AM you can book a same-day tour. Catamaran vendors offer day trips to the Picãozinho reef where you can swim in shallow water with many colorful fish.
Praia do Jacaré is the home of the sunset saxophonist, Jurandy do Sax. Many people come to watch the man play Bolero de Ravel by saxophone in a little boat at sunset. You have to go well before sunset in order to get a good spot. There are many restaurants and bars in the area. Do not swim in this river, it is not the cleanest water.
Where to stay
Cabo Branco is the best location in downtown. There are grocery stores, laundromats, restaurants and bars here. The accommodations are close to the beach boardwalk.
I recommend the Airbnb at Holanda's Prime Shopping Residence. The amenities are great: strong WiFi, rooftop pool, beautiful gym, doorman and shopping downstairs.
I recommend 2 or 3 days for João Pessoa and exploring the surrounding beaches.
Where to eat
Cabo Branco - Mitt sushi bar, Família Franco Italian, Sal e Brasa PRIME, and Camarada Camarão
Praia de Coqueirinho - Quiosque do Genildo has tables in the sand or on the deck. The seafood here is good.
Where to exercise
Cabo Branco
Holanda's Prime fitness center. The equipment is brand new and it is very clean. They also have a rooftop pool (shown above) so I recommend swimming laps here.
Biking, running or walking on the boardwalk is a great way to explore the beach and take in the beach scene.
Volleyball or Futevôlei can be found on the beach. Find a court that seems to be at your level and kindly ask to join.
How to get to João Pessoa
Plane
João Pessoa airport - Presidente Castro Pinto Airport (JPA) is 7 miles from the city center. All major airlines (LATAM, Azul and Gol) fly here with or without a connection depending on which city you are flying from.
Recife (REC) - you can fly to Recife and then drive 2 hours north.
Natal - you can fly to Natal and then drive 2.5 hours south.
Taxi/Car
Recife to João Pessoa - The drive is 2 hours on the highway and costs about $250 RS.
Pipa to João Pessoa - The drive is 1 hour 45 minutes on the highway and it costs about $300 RS.
Natal to João Pessoa - The drive is 2 hours on the highway and costs about $300 RS.
Bus
Recife to João Pessoa - Catedral, Total and Progresso bus companies run buses from the Recife bus station to the João Pessoa bus station daily. There are many options to choose from and the journey can last from 2-3 hours. The cost is anywhere from $30 to $50 RS. Book here.
Pipa to João Pessoa - There is no bus that runs this route directly. You must always transfer in Natal and in my opinion it is not worth the time or effort. First you must take an Uber/taxi from your accommodation in Pipa to the Pipa van station. Second you go from Pipa station to Goianinha, RN in a van. Then from Goianinha, RN you go to the Natal bus station and find the bus to João Pessoa.
Natal to João Pessoa - Nordeste and Progresso bus companies run buses from the Natal bus station to the João Pessoa bus station daily. There are a few options to choose from and the journey can last from 2.5-4.5 hours. The cost is between $35-50 RS. Book here.
Pro tip: the Natal bus station is not safe outside the gates. Do not leave the bus station to walk around the area, especially at night.
Map of all places listed
João Pessoa Album
Drone shots by Jon Brierley
@jbfilminit
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