A beach paradise hidden behind the sand dunes - Jericoacoara
Jericoacoara means "lair of the turtles" but it is often referred to as Jeri. It is a small village with a big reputation for wind and kitesurfing. Jeri is located 300km west of Fortaleza, a 4-6 hour to drive. If you have the time and patience to get to this location, I HIGHLY recommend it. Jeri is often on the list of most beautiful beaches in the world.
The Village of Jeri
East Coast
West Coast
Jeri Album
Jeri has an average temperature of 24-31 C (75-87 F) all year round. The climate is hot and windy with rainfall in April. The kite and windsurfing season is from July to December.
Quick History: Until recently, Jeri was a fishing village with little contact to modern life...
1984 - Jeri was declared an environmental protection area
1988 - electricity arrived in Jeri
2002 - Jeri became a national park
2020 - a hot shower, AC and wifi are staples, but illumination of the streets is forbidden by local law so Jeri relies on the moon and stars
The Village of Jeri
There are 3 main avenues in Jericoacoara - Rua São Francisco, Rua Principal, and Rua do Forró. Within these avenues are small becos (alleyways) within hidden shops and restaurants - check out Beco dos Flores and Beco Doce. Jeri only has sand roads, no paved roads.
Pro tip: walk around in sandals or bare foot! Also, only 4WD vehicles work here.
Cows, donkeys, goats and other animals all walk through the town as if they are people, it's normal here. Do not try to pet the cows, especially if they are eating, they will charge at you. Please remember these are wild animals.
Pôr do Sol Duna (Sunset Dune) is a popular place to watch the sunset. It is located on the west side of town. Every day around 4 PM a large group of people makes their way to the dune for sunset. Vendors sell snacks and treats, some people sing or play guitar, and everyone enjoys the view.
Pro tip: If it is windy, you will get VERY sandy!
Kitesurfing/Windsurfing/Surfing - people kite/wind surf the lagoons in the dunes and in the ocean. It is possible to surf on the west side of Praia Principal de Jeri. The two beaches in the town of Jeri are Praia Principal de Jericoacoara and Malhada.
Praia Principal de Jeri is a lively beach with music, water sports, and vendors walking the beach. There are many kite and wind surfers on the east side of the beach while surfers stick to the west side. The sand extends far into the sea at low tide for those that want to swim.
It's always a party here. The drink carts that line the shore make caipirinhas, mixed fruit drinks, or whatever your heart desires. Find these carts just off of Rua do São Francisco. They play music, sing with microphones, start dance parties, etc.
Malhada is the laidback beach. Head here for an afternoon reading a book in peace and quite. The sand at the entrance is very hot because it is red. Closer to the ocean the sand turns white and cools down. At low tide the water recedes and you can find many sand dollars washed up on the shore.
Pro Tip: Do not touch the purple sand dollars - those are still alive!!
Pedra Furada is a beautiful rock formation a 40 minute walk or 10 minute carriage ride from town. There are two ways to get here:
1. Walk or hire a carriage - A sign at the entrance that says “Gente que ama deitar na rede” and to the left you will see men with donkey carriages for hire. Follow the sand path for 30 minutes to a large rock that has graffiti on it - this is where the carriage ride ends. Take the rock path down to the beach - be careful the rocks are not sturdy.
2. Walk along Malhada beach - This is only possible at low tide!! Check the tide tables before you go or hire a guide. Walk to Praia Malhada and then continue East along the beach. You will see rock formations and pass small caves. The rock formations will get more abundant and you may be able to find natural pools along the way.
Pro Tips:
Go early in the morning because the picture line is long after 9:30 AM.
The sand is hot so bring sandals or your feet will burn.
Go when the tide is low to fully enjoy the pedra furada.
You are not allowed to climb on the Pedra Furada or you will get a fine.
Boat Trip with Lá Do Mar (Passeio de Barco) - Enjoy a sunset boat cruise off the coast of Praia Principal de Jeri. The tour lasts about 3 hours and the guide is great (he speaks many languages). Check them out at ladomarjeri.com
Transportation in Jeri and to surrounding areas
Jeri Town Van - a pick up truck with permanent seats on the back offers free rides through the town of Jeri.
Prea or Jijoca Vans - a 40 minute ride that costs $25 RS - the van will not leave until it has enough passengers. Some people have waited 2 hours.
Private rides to Jijoca or Prea cost $150 RS.
The best way to explore - rent a buggy, ATV, or 4WD vehicle
East Coast Tour - Literal Leste
Tour options: buggy or ATV
We recommend the buggy for this tour!
1. Jericoacoara National Park - drive to one of the largest dunes Jeri. You cannot drive up these dunes so the driver will stop and you can climb to the top. The best part is the run down the dune!
Around the corner are the lagoons where you can swim in the warm, fresh water. In high season many people kite and wind surf here.
2. Lagoa Paraíso (Paradise Lagoon) - The famous Alchemyst beach club is located here, but we went to Pousada do Paulo instead. Alchemyst has a $50 RS per person cover charge but Pousada do Paulo did not. Both offer food, drinks, photo spots, and kayaking, SUP, etc. We stayed for 45 minutes and continued to the next spot. If you spend the day at the Alchemyst then the cover charge may be worth it.
3. Buraco Azul (Blue Hole) - There are two of these in Jeri: Castelhano and Caiçara.
Caiçara - entrance fee is $10 RS because there is a large floating deck in the middle and there are bars, restaurants and more photo places (flower swings, hammocks, hearts with flowers, etc.). You can also jump from the top of the walls into the Buraco.
Castelhano - entrance is free and they have a few hammocks. It is a bit smaller than Castelhano.
Both are half man-made and half nature-made. They were digging a hole and then it rained a lot and they said okay let’s just keep it like this. If you have a drone, try to get a picture floating in the middle. You can hire a buggy and drive here for a day trip - $200 RS per buggy for up to 4 people.
4. Praia de Barrinha - The sand dunes are next to the ocean and fill up with fresh water in rainy season. In high season this is a popular place to spend the day.
Stop here for lunch at Komakí restaurant. The highest quality, freshest lobster and seafood. Enjoy the first level garden and have a cocktail on the beach. Then relax on a lounge chair on the roof deck while you wait for your food. Check out the Where to Eat section for more on this restaurant.
Pro Tip: Hire a private vehicle or buggy to take you to spend the day at this restaurant and sand dune - $200 RS per buggy up to 4 people.
5. Árvore da Preguiça (Lazy Tree) - Drive through the town of Prea and then drive along the beach to get to the lazy tree.
You cannot climb this tree, you will get fined and you could break the tree branches. Don't be that person!
Tour Details:
Start time - 9:15 AM (you can request to start earlier)
Return time - 4 PM
Vehicle - Buggy is recommended but you can ATV
Special Request - Do the tour backwards, like we did. Advantage of backwards tour: picture spots were not crowded and you can end your day with lunch at Komaki.
Price - $300 (without Barrinhas stop) $350 RS (with Barrinhas stop) per buggy for up to 4 people. Payable to the driver in cash - no cards.
West Coast Tour - Litoral Oeste
Tour options: Buggy or ATV
We recommend the ATV for this tour!
1. The guide will pick you up at your accommodation. You must complete a safety test drive before starting the tour - this lasts 15 minutes.
Follow the guide and drive on the beach towards the the Sunset Dune. Stop to take some pictures on the ATV with the ocean in the background.
2. Cross the river that separates Jeri from Guriú. The guide will help you onto the floating platform.
Optional stop at the Cavalo Marinho (Seahorse excursion). The cost is $20 RS per person and the boat ride is 20 minutes. The guide scoops the seahorses out of the water and lets everyone take pictures.
3. Dunas de Tatajuba - Drive through Guriú's Mangrove Beach and continue driving up and down the sand dunes. There are some steep drops that the guide will help you navigate. The drive through the sand dunes can be as crazy or calm as you prefer.
4. Tirolesa and Skibunda Park - This is the best part of the day. The tirolesa platform is built at the top of the dune and it goes over the lagoon. Jump off the platform and fly into the water. Try the water slide where you lay down on a thick mat - you can do this backwards or forwards. The cost is $20 RS per person - 2x tirolesa and 3x water slide.
5. Lagoa Grande (Big Lagoon) in Tatajuba - This is a large lagoon in the middle of the dunes. Order fresh fish and lobster here. They bring out the fish, lobster and shrimp on a tray and you choose which one you would like to eat. While they cook it just sit and relax, swim, or go for a ride on the paddle board or kayak.
6. Picture time at Mangrove Beach in Guriú - The guide takes pictures of you on the hammocks, swings, and other platforms built into the mangroves. There are vendors selling drinks and handicrafts. It feels like the Lion King's hyena den.
Tour Details:
Start time - 9:30 AM (you can request to start earlier)
Return time - 4 PM
Vehicle - ATV is recommended but you can Buggy
Price - $400 RS for two people. Payable to the driver in cash - no cards.
Check out my other posts for more destinations...
Natal
Fortaleza
next post is FLORIPA out on 8/19/2021!
Where to stay
Casa da Sá - the host, Sabrina, is amazing! She has the best tips and is thoughtful, friendly, and knowledgeable. The space is well-decorated, clean and they have a nice rooftop where you can watch the sunset. She has good WiFi if you want to work from this location!
Pousada Araxá - fantastic restaurant and the most beautiful tree next to the pool to create a relaxing environment.
Essenza - beachfront rooms that each have a private pool - this is a very fancy hotel, perfect if you are looking to celebrate something special.
Jericoacoara has many beautiful accommodations with reliable WiFi for video calls.
I can help pick the right option, specific to your style.
I recommend 7 days to explore Jericoacoara and the surrounding beaches. Many people stay forever.
Where to eat
Komakí - located in Barrinha - The best lobster, shrimp and seafood dishes! Fresh and affordable food significantly better than Lagao Paraiso, Lagoa Azul and Barraco Azul restaurants. Relax on the beach or at the garden deck bar. Enjoy the roof deck where you can find more lounge chairs and the seating area.
Freddysimo - Sit on the second floor terrace fun for people watching. Try the hummus, green tomato dish, homemade bread (pão caseiro), homemade pappardelle, and the filet mignon. The papardelle sauce was so good we ordered more bread to dip into the sauce. The filet was cooked to perfection. Try the aperol spritz!
Naturalmente Creperia Restaurante - This restaurant has been around for 20 years since 2002 when Jeri first began. The wait to get in can get long because everyone loves this place. We had the shrimp salad and the chicken salad - both were very refreshing. For desert try the chocolate or Nutella crepe with banana and ice cream. The açaí smoothie is perfect for a hot day.
Pousada Araxá - pizza pizza pizza and ambiance! Perfect for a romantic evening.
São Francisco food truck - Baião and espetinho for $12 RS (skewer of meat, rice with beans, salad and farofa). It is a nice home cooked meal by the family that owns the food cart.
Casa Uca - located in Guriú - They have wifi, a pool, drinks and food, and chill vibes. They just re-did the entire place in May 2021 and it is beautiful. You can spend the day here relaxing or working and walk to the ocean.
O Henrique - located in Mangue Seco - Fresh seafood and a great place to stop for lunch and drinks or spend the day.
Where to exercise
The gym - It is located in an unmarked building next to the Hortifruti. No AC and many of the machines are older - watch out for the grease! They have basic weightlifting equipment - $15 RS per day or $40 RS per week.
They are building a brand new gym but unsure on the opening date.
How to get to Jericoacoara
Car
Jericoacoara to Fortaleza - Rent a 4WD car and drive 4-5 hours
Jericoacoara to Atins - Rent a 4WD car and drive 6 hours
Bus
Jericoacoara to Fortaleza - Take a 4WD to Jijoca for $40-50 RS. In Jijoca go to the Fretcar bus station and take the 8 hour bus to Fortaleza for $100 RS.
Air
Fly to Fortaleza International Airport - it is a very popular destination for all airlines in Brazil. Here you can find many 4WD drivers holding signs for Jericoacoara car share/car pool. This usually costs $200-300 RS depending how gringo you look.
Map of all places listed
Jericoacoara Album
Drone shots by Jon Brierley
@jbfilminit
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