A sea of desert lagoons - Lençóis Maranhenses
Lençóis Maranhenses is a national park of 380,000 acres - 43 miles of coastline and an interior or sand dunes. It is nestled between the Atlantic Ocean, the Parnaíba River and the São José Basin. In rainy season the sand dunes fill with freshwater forming gorgeous lagoons that are popular for swimming and comprise about 41% of the area of the park.
If you have the time and patience to get to this location, I HIGHLY recommend it. Lençóis is breathtaking and it feels like a dream.
Lençóis Album
Lençóis has an average temperature of 26-29 C (79-84 F) all year round. The dry season is from June to December. This is a popular kite and windsurfing destination from July to December. The water temperature of the lagoons is between 27-32 C (81-90 F).
Pro Tip: The best time to visit is from June to August because the lagoons are full. By November the water in the lagoons evaporates so there is no swimming.
The Dunes
It is not recommended to enter the dunes by yourself. It can be dangerous because you can get lost. Please use a knowledgable, local guide to help you navigate the dunes. There are 3 access points for the dunes: Atins, Barreirinhas and Santo Amaro do Maranhão.
Pro Tip: Atins is the best option!
Tour Details: Sunrise Horseback Ride
Start time - 4:00 AM
Return time - 8:30 AM
Vehicle - Horse
The guide will pick you up at your accommodation. You will learn the commands and how to lead the horse with the rope. Follow the guide through the village of Atins to the entrance of the sand dunes. Relax and watch the sunrise over the dunes. Return through the village or on the beach.
Tour Details: ATV Day Trip
Start time - 9:00 AM
Return time - 7:00 PM
Vehicle - ATV
The guide will pick you up at your accommodation. You will learn how to drive the ATV and how to follow the leader. Keep a close eye on the tracks because the dunes play tricks on your eyes when the sun hits.
In the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park the guide will take you to the best lagoons for swimming. They know how to find dunes that are not visited by other tour companies. Trust them!
For lunch there are two options (not included in the price of the trip). Canto do Atins at Antonio's Restaurant is famous for the grilled prawns and other seafood dishes. Or you can choose a traditional lunch at the home of one of the families that lives in the park. Pro Tip: the traditional lunch is delicious, try the free-range chicken!
After lunch you will explore the dunes again. As you drive through the dunes you can stop to swim. When the sun starts to set you will choose a dune to sit and watch the sunset. After this you will drive through the dunes in the dark. The moon and stars guide you back home!
Contact our friends @Nativus.Atins
*This is not a sponsored partnership. @Nativus.Atins are friends from Atins.
They are the best guides and gracious hosts. Let them know we sent you and you will have an experience of a lifetime!
Atins
Atins is a popular place to stay when visiting Lençóis Maranhenses. Located on the east side of the dunes, it is considered the gateway the National Park.
Previously, Atins was a small fishing village. Now, it is experiencing an increase in tourism and quick renovations. Electricity arrived in Atins about 8 years ago, but now many hotels have sufficient WiFi and strong air conditioning.
Atins maintains a rustic, hippie vibe. Getting around Atins will mainly require walking or ATV pick-ups and drop-offs if your accommodation offers this service.
The roads are made of soft sand, animals like mules, cows, dogs and chickens roam freely through the village. The good vibes are palpable in Atins and you might enjoy it so much you never leave.
The coastline of Atins is where the Preguiças River meets the Atlantic Ocean. Enjoy a sunny day at one of the many beach bars and restaurants. At low tide the water recedes and you can walk far out onto the sandbars. Many families rent boats and dock at these restaurants to spend the day relaxing and enjoying the sunshine while enjoying a few drinks and fresh seafood.
Basic goods can be found, but the price is more expensive. If you are on a budget, buy your groceries in Barreirinhas before arriving in Atins.
Pro Tip: There are no ATMs in Atins. Make sure you bring cash because not all places accept card.
Earlier I mentioned that you can access the dunes from 3 points: Atins, Barreirinhas and Santo Amaro do Maranhão.
Atins is the best option for those looking for a fun, hippie location with good vibes and a nature feel. You can easily access the beach and other fun activities.
Barreirinhas is a good option for those who do not like nature vibes. If you prefer better cell phone service, grocery stores with more options and a town feel then this is better for you.
Santo Amaro do Maranhão is an option for those looking for a very rustic experience (details below for those looking how to arrive at this destination). It is possible to walk from Santo Amaro to Atins, stopping at small communities along the way. This is a 3 day excursion. Always find a guide so you do not get lost in the dunes.
Check out my other posts for more destinations...
Fortaleza
Where to Stay
Pousada Rico - the host, Rico, is very kind and helpful! The posada is clean, conveniently located in town and they have water for purchase. Breakfast is included - they make eggs fresh in the morning. The WiFi is good but I do not recommend video calls from this location.
La Ferme de Georges - luxe, private chalets. A tropical eco retreat with a beautiful pool. They offer a garden to table dining experience.
Vila Guará - deluxe and family beachfront bungalows. They have Kiteboarding with an IKO certification.
Kitepoint Atins - Hostel camping for the budget travel. Beachfront bar, paddle boarding and other activities.
Atins has many paradisiacal accommodations with reliable WiFi. I can help pick the right option, specific to your style.
I recommend 5 days to explore Atins, Lençóis Maranhenses and the surrounding areas. Many people stay forever.
Where to Eat
Pizzería Maresia - Bread and gelato made fresh daily.
Lagoa do Vento - A beautiful garden restaurant with delicious food and drinks.
Lar Doce Mar - A traditional barraca with a great view of the kiteboarding. Enjoy a beer and some fresh grilled fish.
Restaurante Canto do Atins - a local powerhouse for shrimp dishes and seafood. Enjoy a delicious meal from a local family.
Where to Exercise
Kitepoint Atins has a small set of weights - very rustic. No gym here but get your steps in from walking around town. Run on the beach or swim in the ocean as a good alternative!
How to get to Lençóis
Transfer Company
Jericoacoara to Barreirinhas - $390 RS per person
Truck from Jeri to Jijoca - 9 AM to 10 AM
Transfer to a van for Jijoca to Parnaíba - 10 AM to 12:30 PM
Arrive in Parnaíba at 12:30 PM - stop for lunch
SUV from Parnaíba to Barreirinhas Port - 1 PM to 4 PM
* This transfer was smooth and comfortable. The company communicated with us the entire trip and we were never confused. It was very safe and easy to transfer. *
São Luis to Barreirinhas - $100 RS per person
Vans are available from the São Luis Airport or your accommodation. They leave often and there are many transfer company options. The trip is 3-4 hours depending on traffic.
Barreirinhas to Atins
- Private Boat from Barreirinhas port to travel through Rio Perguiça - 1 hour ride ($500 RS).
Arrive at Atins Port and transfer to a 4WD vehicle to take you to your pousada - 5 minutes
* The river is beautiful, especially at sunset. You pass the smaller dunes of Paulino Neves on the way to Atins *
- Truck 4WD from Barreirinhas Rua Major Galas at 10 AM for 1.5 hours (Mon-Sat for $25 RS). Return at 5:30 AM
- Shared Boat from Barreirinhas at 12 PM for 1 hour (Mon-Sat for $50 RS). Return at 2 PM
I and our friends @Nativus.Atins can help you schedule your transfer!
Pro Tip: The Port of Atins is merely a point on a deserted beach where the boat drops off and picks up passengers. Organize your transit from the port to your accommodation BEFORE arriving at the Port of Atins. Most pousadas offer free transfers if you plan in advance.
Bus
São Luis to Barreirinhas - take the Cisne Branco bus. If you are looking to go to Santo Amaro then ask the driver to let you off at Sangue (3 hour trip for $21 RS). In Sangue find a 4x4 at the bus station to take you to Santo Amaro (2 hour trip for $15 RS).
Air
Fly to São Luis International Airport - all Brazilian airlines have flights here. Follow the instructions above for information from São Luis.
Map of all places listed
Lençóis Maranhenses Album
Drone shots by Jon Brierley
@jbfilminit
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