Driving up the coast of Alagoas - The Ecological Route
The Ecological Route is a hidden paradise of white sand beaches, clear warm water, and endless palm trees. It is a 20km (12 mile) stretch that runs from the South point of Barra de Camaragibe to the North point of Porto de Pedras. It sits between the larger cities of Maceió and Maragogi. It is often referred to as the Costa dos Corais (The Coral Coast).
*Pro Tips:
1. The best way to explore this region is with a car. There is no public transportation since this area is still mostly undeveloped.
2. Stop at an ATM before starting this adventure. Jangadeiros and beach vendors only accept cash - ATMs are sparse on this route.
How to get to The Ecological Route
Grab a snorkel and swim with fish in the natural pools that line the shore. The weather is always beautiful, but the high season is from October to January.
Beaches on The Ecological Route (from South to North)
Barra de Camaragibe marks the Southernmost point of the Ecological Route. The beaches on the circuit are listed on the sign when you arrive.
There is a net set up here for beach volleyball and futevolei. When the tide is low and the river recedes you can walk out to the sandbars.
Jangadeiros sail across the river to Praia do Morro and Praia Ponta da Gamela ($5 RS). Morro and Gamela beaches are extremely secluded and offer long stretches of white sand and untouched nature.
Praia de Marceneiro and Praia de Riacho are white sand beaches lined with palm trees just North of Camaragibe. The famous Capela dos Milagres (chapel) is located between Marceneiro and Riacho. There are natural pools just off the shore that are visible at low tide.
São Miguel dos Milagres is home to natural pools that are often voted the best in Alagoas. Jangadeiros sail to the natural pools at low tide (check the tide tables here). These Jangadas are different from Maceió - the mast is replaced by a roof and the sailboat is powered by a gas motor instead of the wind.
The boat - fits 10-12 people
The cost - $40 RS
15 minute ride from the shore to the Piscinas Naturais
Swimming time is 1-2 hours - confirm with the captain
There are no food or drink Jangadas
There are guides for hire who take pictures of people with the yellow fish
The Mirante Alto do Cruzeiro is located in the center of São Miguel dos Milagres behind the church. To appreciate the viewpoint you can run, walk or take a buggy to the top.
Praia do Toque is an 8 minute drive North of São Miguel dos Milagres. The Milagres de Toque Beach Club is a great place to spend the day. The standard entrance fee is $50 RS and the VIP entrance fee is $80 RS.
The Beach Club serves drinks and food at reasonable prices. They have a beautiful pool and DJ booth as well strong wifi. Our belongings were safe to leave at our table while we walked on the beach and swam in the ocean.
Porto da Rua is a small fishing village with natural pools (2km walk North of Praia do Toque.
Tatuamanha and Laje are close to each other so you can walk along the shore from one to the other. You can find gorgeous beachfront homes here. The best time to visit is at low tide when the water recedes and the shore extends.
Praia Patacho is located next to a sprawling palm tree plantation. Patacho do Sonhos restaurant offers pool and beach access. This is a popular spot for families, but if you prefer something more secluded you can walk down the beach away from the restaurant.
Porto de Pedras is the Northernmost point of the Ecological Route.
There is a waterfront park and playground with a soccer field. The famous lighthouse is beautiful at sunset - it is possible to drive or walk to the top to take pictures of the bay.
The balsa station (river boat station) offers car and pedestrian crossing to Japaratinga. The entrance to the balsa station is just below the lighthouse.
The boat - holds 4 or 6 cars
The cost - $16 RS for the car and free for pedestrians
The ride across is 5-10 minutes
First ride is at 6:30
Last ride is at 22:00
Only one person can stay in the car to drive onto the balsa and the other person must get out and walk onto the balsa. It is possible for a line to form, especially in high season (October to January) . We arrived at the station at 4 PM and waited 15 minutes in the car line. Vendors sell snacks while you wait and there are stores at the dock.
Send me an email to discuss questions, clarifications or custom travel plans!
Check out my other posts for more Alagoas destinations...
Where to stay on The Ecological Route
São Miguel dos Milagres is considered the most beautiful beach on The Ecological Route and it is the most central location. I stayed in an Airbnb that had strong wifi and it was around the corner from the beach. Our host provided snacks and homemade cachaça for guests – DELICIOUS!
There are many beautiful, beachfront pousadas (bed and breakfast hotels) in São Miguel dos Milagres and Praia do Toque. I am happy to help you choose the right one!
I recommend 3 days for São Miguel dos Milagres and the surrounding area.
Where to eat on The Ecological Route
Restaurante O Beco is the best in São Miguel dos Milagres. The woman who owns and operates this restaurant is an excellent chef. We tried the caldinho, filé de peixe and the picanha. We enjoyed it so much that we returned the next night to eat there again. Make sure to try the delicious caipirinhas - I had strawberry and pineapple. The restaurant is cute and cozy so it makes you feel like you are eating a meal in this woman's home.
Instagram: @restauranteobeco
This is not an advertisement or partnership. This is a genuine recommendation.
Restaurante Self Service Caseiro is a pay by kilo/quentinha restaurant close to the beach entrance. The quentinha is $15 RS. It includes pasta, rice, beans, salad and two pieces of protein. I highly recommend this place for a quick meal close to the beach.
Quentinha - translates to "little hot"- this is a term used for a hot takeaway plate of food.
*Pro Tip: São Miguel does not have a large grocery store. It is a quiet town at night so plan to cook or find a restaurant before it gets too late.
Where to exercise on The Ecological Route
Academia Milagres Fit and Academia Porto Fitness are small gyms close to São Miguel.
Casa Acayu Pousada has a fitness center for guests.
We decided to run through the town and up to the Mirante do Alto Cruzeiro.
How to get to The Ecological Route
Tour Companies
Tour companies in Maceió and Maragogi make day trips to The Ecological Route. This could be an option for those who are short on time.
Car
From Maceió to Barra de Camaragibe the drive is 1.5 hours on the inland route or 2 hours on the coastal route. There are two Localiza car rental locations in Maceió: the airport and Ponta Verde. The 4WD car is recommended, but we managed with 2WD.
From Maragogi to The Ecological Route the ride is approximately 1.5-2 hours.
From Recife to The Ecological Route the ride is approximately 3 hours.
The car allows for more flexibility when exploring the many beaches.
Air
Fly to Maceió and then rent a car to drive North.
There is a very small airport in Maragogi with limited flights at this time.
Fly to Recife (many flights each day) and then rent a car to drive South.
Bus
The bus system is not reliable and adds significant time to the journey. I do not recommend taking public transportation to The Ecological Route.
Map of all places listed
The Ecological Route Album
Drone shots by Jon Brierley
@jbfilminit
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